Tuesday, December 4, 2007

"Where did all my Bordeaux go?" or 'Where's the fruit?"

I started 'this thing of ours' in 1981. Wine was relatively inexpensive and bargains were plentiful. The 'boom' had not hit yet, at least not the boom which has brought us to today's conditions.

I enjoyed Bordeaux from the left bank (more CS based than Merlot). I was able to get wines like 1978 Beychevelle for $11 and 1982 Lafite Rothschild futures for $300...a case!

It took some time, but I was able to build up quite a nice collection. Moderately rare Bordeuax going back to the teens (1918 Calon Segur) by tapping some of the great cellar auctions like Delmonicos in NYC. I had amassed many top vintages of the 40's, 50's, 60's and 7o's. I remember bidding on a pair of 1926 Mouton Rothschilds. When the bidding went above $200 for the pair I stopped. I also remember bein offered a newly Chateau re-corked 1934 Lafite on sale at Sherry Lehman for about $150. By time I went back to to the shop, it was gone. I found I had filled my Eurocave quite nicely.

California Cabernet was a very different beast then; monolithic and primary for the most part. Lingering in the back of my mind I had always felt there was something I was missing in all the wines I drank.

Somewhere around 2001 I awoke and realized; I did not like Bordeaux. To me it was funky, barnyardy, missing fruit and just plain amiss. The whole concept of 'secondary nuances' flew past me. In contrast, many of today's California Cabernet's are full of deep red/black fruits, wonderful lush mouth feel, and just all around enjoyable. I happen to like my Cabs young; 5-10 years is perfect, and I am not shy about opening my 2004's either. Why wait? If I enjoy them now, what's to gain? (I love when I see tasting notes proclaiming "wonderful, 95 points! I will wait for my other 5 to get better." Better? There is a high probability they will be disappointed.)

What to do? What to do?

I sold ALL of my Bordeaux and restocked with my beloved newly rediscovered Cabernet. Not just any Cabernet, pure Napa Valley elixir.Don't cry for me...I did OK.

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